In het engels pigeon clock, pigeon timer, timing device for Talen zoals duits kastenuhr holzkastenuhr, taubenuhr, taubenuhren, brieftaubenuhr,īrieftaubenuhren maar ook konstatieruhr, konstatieruhren, konstantieruhr of konstantieruhren. postduivenklok, postduiven klok, en in andere klok voor de duivensportĭuiven prikklok duiven stempelklok. Ook wel constateurs automatique of constateur automatiques. I might need to relieve the bearing surface so it isn't as long, just fit at the ends, but let's see how it goes.Het meervoud van duivenklok is duivenklokken, van constateur constateurs The hour pipe is free on the minute pipe(?) until I put oil on it, then it gets a bit sticky. The printed dial would be better on card rather than paper, it wrinkled with the glue. Now need to find a nice piece of mahogany or similar for the base and buy a glass dome. I've since made the chapter ring, only the hands to go now The gears came from HPC, Reliance now have a £250 minimum order chargeįinal big gear omitted so you can see the first pair Need to find a light spring for the friction drive. It now all goes round rather sweetly, just a trace of backlash full rotation. Currently held together with double sided sticky tape to test it out, I'll go and buy some JB weld shortly. The original second gear in the train (the bigger one on the layshaft) I sawed through the spokes, set it up and turned the stubs concentric with the pivots, then bored the new gear to slip over. That was a lot easier to sort out, set up in 4 jaw again and bore it parallel. Then I found that the hour pipe is also bored tapered. I suppose I could have made a tapered D bit. well I haven't got a tapered broach, and are they all the same taper anyway? Boring a hole 4mm diameter by 20mm deep to some unknown taper is for the supermen, not me, so I set up in the 4 jaw on my little lathe and skimmed it parallel. The author suggested using a tapered broach, or boring out the sleeve which fits over to suit. If I'd read all the original article I'd have known that, but I didn't. The minute shaft (is that what you call it?) turned out to be tapered. I chickened out and bought a pair of 28t 0.75 module gears. What the existing gears are is anyone's guess. The wooden base is only temporary, honest. Not stunningly expensive, or I can get a set of cutters 0.5 mod including arbor for just over £100. This opens up commercial gears, 42t 0.5 mod, 28t 0.75 mod or 21t 1 mod. Guess what, I can only get a 0.05mm feeler between, so I would say 21mm will do. I reckoned I'd better have another go a measuring the centres, so I've made 2 blanks exactly 21mm diameter, the idea being to then use a feeler gauge to get the exact distance. Meking cycloidal cutters is described here at length: making-clock-wheel-pinion-cuttersĪ forum member very kindly offered to make a pair of 0.8 mod 26t gears but slightly oversize to suit the centres I'd measured. As you are not meshing with an existing wheel you could use involute gears I seem to remember John Stevenson published a method for making cutters some time ago. Yes they are expensive for a one off job. Thanks Russell, I've been on M&D website, at nearly £90 I think I'll revise my plan and go for the daisy wheel, or I might have a play with magnetic gears You can buy them on line from Meadows and Passemore. Can anyone point me in the right direction?Ĭlock wheel and pinion cutters are made in increments of 0.05 module so 0.55 is what you are looking for. ![]() If I use divide 21.26 by 39 I get a module of 0.545mm which doesn't sound right, but if I try 40 dp I get a centre distance of 24.76, which is equally unlikely. Not easy to measure, so might be a bit off. As near as I can measure the centre distance is 21.26mm. If I replace the 26:52 with 39:39 I get the desired result.
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